Posts Tagged ‘seeds’

Growing Your Herbs from Seeds

Monday, March 8th, 2010

When I was child, I can recall sitting with my grandmother, looking at the seed catalog, looking for the best tomatoes, cucumbers and corn. It seemed like her whole garden came from that catalog. Now don’t mind me, but in today’s world you just cannot grow all your herb plants from seeds, unless you want to wait forever for them to do anything.

Some herb plants are better than others for germinating from seeds. One herb that can quickly grow and rapidly mature is dill. Germination for the dill herb is simple. On the other hand, you will already be in herb gardener retirement when your thyme herb finally matures. You can raise most annuals from seeds and some perennials too. If you have got a lot of perennials, you will save cash in the long run because there will not be a replacement cost for the plants.

I would rather not to begin my perennial herb plants in a seed tray or in a regular herb garden bed; instead, I use a pot. The container will give the herb plenty of room to thrive and protect it from invasive weeds while they slowly grow. It only takes about 3 to four weeks for most perennials to develop.

If you have a mild winter in your climate, you can plant both your annual and perennial herb seeds year-round, provided that you have the right herbs. If you’re planning to start your annual herbs outside, you can plant them in the spring, summer or fall.

Here are a few of my favorite herbs to raise from seeds:

  • Anise: This lovely iridescent herb is known by some people as the hyssop and is a source of flavoring for licorice—not to mention the aroma. Its purple, blue and green notched leaves go well with its purple and blue flowers. It is mostly used in teas, potpourris and as a garnish for meals. It is best to start your perennial anise early, up to eight weeks before you intend to move it outdoors
  • Caraway: The interesting looking caraway herb, which has a nutty, licorice taste that is just as interesting, is used in liqueurs, but also in sauerkraut, split pea soup and even goulash. Although you can eat the root, the most frequently used part of the plant is its seed. You can begin your biennials inside as early as six weeks before the last frost, especially if you want to shorten the time you have to wait before you see the first bloom.
  • Coneflower: Add coneflower to your herb garden if you are looking for a perennial that is simple to care for. Most people think of it as a wildflower, but because of its medicinal qualities, it fits squarely in the herb camp. This perennial herb, also known as Echinacea, is nice for boosting the immune system and helping keep allergies at bay.

It can take about 6 weeks for your herb plants to sprout, get hardy and be ready to go outdoors in either containers or beds. This is especially helpful if you live in cold-weather climates—it’ll give you a jumpstart on the growing season.

Perennials do really well in warm climates. If you live in a warm climate, you can start them anytime.

When you sow your annual seeds, just sow them straight to your herb garden, or container if you’re going to start there. If you select your herbs wisely, you can get all self-sowers, which can come back next season from the seeds they “sow” this season.

Good luck with your herb gardening. Be sure to let me know how your herb garden grows.

Here is more information on Herb Garden Kits. Here is a website with a free mini-course dedicated to Herb Gardens.

Growing Herbs Indoors from Seeds

Friday, February 26th, 2010

Beginning with seeds can be a little tedious, but I like giving my annuals a jump on the growing season by starting them from either the seeds I collected the previous summer or from seeds I order online.

Not all herbs do well from seeds, so read up on your herbs before you invest in seeds, pots, sod and the like.

First, soak your seeds for at least three hours before planting them so that they will have an extra advantage. Another way to do this is to allow your herbs to pre-sprout by soaking them, placing them on a moistened paper towel and then putting your seeds into a freezer bag and sealing it up. If you go this route, be sure to keep the sealed bag away from heat and check back often to see if the seeds have started germinating yet. Take your germinating seeds and plant them immediately.

Do your homework before you plant your seeds or begin the germinating process, because some seeds must be scarred before planting (as in the citronella herb) or need to be heated before they can sprout (as in the chili pepper herb).

Once your seeds have begun the sprouting process you should focus on controlling their growing environment. How long it will take your seeds to grow depends on the seed. Some can take only 5 or 6 days while others can take over a month.

Your seed pots should contain a special seed-starting sod mix that comes with both vermiculite and sphagnum moss for best results.

I cultivate plenty of herb plants from seeds each year. Some of the best ones are:

  • Caraway: If you’ve got some caraway in your kitchen spice rack, simply sprinkle some of them into a pot, cover with dirt and water—how simple could that be? Germination will not take long, and before you know it, you will be planting it in your favorite flower bed or pot. Caraway is a popular herb for both German and Indian dinners.
  • Lavender: For the fastest and best outcomes, use the Lady kind of Lavender or it can take forever to grow your lavender plant—and why waste time waiting for seeds to grow when you could already be enjoying this most sublime plant.
  • Nasturtium: These brilliant and edible herb plants are so easy to cultivate from seeds that you’ll wonder why you did not start it sooner. If you decide to try these out, begin by soaking the seeds for at least 8 hours and then plant them in rich, well-drained dirt. Nasturtiums like living inside, so you don’t have to move them out once spring comes. Just lop off a couple of blooms when you need them to add color to your salads.
  • Shepherd’s Purse: Even though a lot of people think shepherd’s purse is a weed, this tasty plant has a delicate peppery smell and the flavor is a great addition to any salad. As an added bonus, the fresh leaves are great for a heavy dose of your daily vitamins. To raise shepherd’s purse, simply sprinkle the seeds on top of the dirt, water it and watch it grow.

And those herb plants are just a few. Some other nice herbs include anise, hyssop, basil, German chamomile, fennel, lemon balm and sorrel.

Good luck with your herb gardening. Be sure to let me know how your herb garden grows.

Here is more information on Mini Herb Garden. Here is a website with a free mini-course dedicated to Herb Gardens.

Planting a City Flower Garden

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

I’ve been a city dweller since birth.I am talking city dwelling that is noisy, busy, and jam-packed with people.  Don’t get me wrong.  I love the hustle and bustle of city life.  I love the access to all sorts of activities and entertainment at my fingertips.  But, I also love the color and scent of beautiful flowers, and picking them up at the corner flower shop, before I come home each night, just isn’t cutting it any more.  

 Recently, I’ve wanted to make some changes in my life.Slow myself down.  Stop and smell the roses, if you will.  Things have gotten too hectic at work and I want my home (yes, apartments are “home” for many of us) to be a relaxing, safe-haven for me to return to after a hard day at work. 

When I said, “Stop and smell the roses” earlier, I meant that literally.  I am very jealous of those people who have enough room in their yards for an outstanding flower garden.   This started me wondering why I can’t have it all.  Living in the city and tending to a flower garden. 

What to do, what to do!?  Then it came to me.  I could create my own flower garden out on the balcony of my apartment.  Don’t laugh!  This is do-able!  I just needed to do a little research, get some help to convert my balcony into my Garden of Eden.   

Now, I’m like many other single people today, who carefully budget their income, and I understood what an investment transforming my balcony would be.  I had to find pots and seeds that were cheap yet pots and seeds that added beauty.  I did a lot of scientific research to find the best flowers for the climate I live in, that would grow in the blazing sun of morning and shade in the afternoon, and would re-flower each spring … oh who am I kidding?I selected flowers, right off, based on my favorite color choices.  The Purple Coneflowers and Foxgloves both have beautiful shades of purple.  I made sure they both grow all summer and even into the early fall.  Luckily, they are easy to care for (the Coneflowers are even drought resistant).  After all, I don’t have a well developed “green thumb” yet.  I am just getting started. 

I found some really cool wrought iron planter brackets to place my pots into.  My balcony is also made of wrought iron and these brackets can be hung right off of it.  There is room for about five pots in it or space to just plant the seeds directly into the planter.Adjustable mounts for the flower pots I purchased are available in case I decide to add more single pots or hanging baskets in the future. 

There are so many choices out there!  I am thrilled it is springtime and I can get started on my new “garden” soon. 

GROW A VICTORY GARDEN with HEIRLOOM SEEDS

Monday, October 6th, 2008

During WW I and WW II, Americans were encouraged to grow Victory Gardens to help support the war effort. Perhaps now is the time to renew that practice.  Previously, people were asked to grow their own produce, so more of the commercially grown produce was available for the relief effort overseas.  Those unable to grow their own were forced to use rationing coupons.  The new war on terrorism is different from previous wars, and no one is predicting the American public will need to endure food rationing, as previously done the first two world wars.  But, America still needs the support of the people, and our economy needs to keep functioning in order to lessen the effects of the war on the home front.  By growing your own Victory Gardens, you can save money.  That money can then be used to help support the war effort, either by donating it to charity or spending it to help our sagging economy.  Why not start planting the seeds for tomorrow’s future…. plan your Victory Garden today!

To get things started, a $10.00 donation will be made to the
American Red Cross for every Victory Garden sold!

The Victory Gardens package includes:

  • BEANS (6 varieties): Black Turtle, Bush Blue Lake, Commodore, Fordhook Lima, Old Homestead Pole and Pencil Pod Black Wax
  • BEETS ( 2 varieties): Chiogga and Early Wonder
  • BROCCOLI (1 variety): De Cicco
  • BRUSSELS SPROUT (1 variety): Long Island Improved
  • CABBAGE (2 varieties): Early Jersey Wakefield and Red Danish
  • CARROTS (2 varieties): Amsterdam Minicor and Autumn King
  • CAULIFLOWER (1 variety): Early Snowball
  • CELERY (1 variety): Golden Self Blanching
  • COLLARD (1 variety): Georgia
  • CORN ( 1 variety): Golden Bantam
  • CUCUMBER (2 varieties): National Pickling and Tendergreen Burpless
  • EGGPLANT (1 variety): Black Beauty
  • GOURD (1 variety): Ornamental Small Mix
  • KALE (1 variety): Dwarf Blue Curled
  • KOHLRABI (1 variety): Early White Vienna
  • LEEK (1 variety): American Flag
  • LETTUCE (5 varieties): Black Seeded Simpson, Buttercrunch, Freckles Romaine, Gourmet Salad Blend, and Mesculin Mix
  • MELONS (2 varieties): Jenny Lind and Sweet Passion
  • MUSTARD GREENS (1 variety): Southern Giant Curled
  • OKRA (1 variety): Clemson Spineless
  • ONION, BUNCHING (1 variety): Evergreen White Bunching
  • PARSNIP (1 variety): Hollow Crown
  • PEPPERS (4 varieties): California Wonder, California Wonder Gold, Jalapeno and Long Red Cayenne
  • PEAS (3 varieties): Early Frosty, Mammoth Melting Sugar and Sugar Daddy
  • PUMPKINS (1 variety): New England Pie
  • RUTABAGA (1 variety): American Purple Top
  • RADISH (2 varieties): Easter Egg and Crimson Giant
  • SPINACH (2 varieties): Bloomsdale Long Standing and New Zealand
  • SQUASH, SUMMER (4 varieties): Dark Green Zucchini, Golden Zucchini, White Patty Pan and Yellow Crookneck
  • SQUASH, WINTER (2 varieties): Butternut and Spaghetti
  • SWISS CHARD (2 varieties): Lucullus and Ruby Red
  • SOUTHERN PEA (1 variety): California Black-Eyed
  • TOMATO (6 varieties): Besser, Big Red, Giant Beefsteak, Homestead 24, Pink Brandywine and Roma
  • TURNIPS (1 variety): Purple Top White Globe
  • WATERMELON (1 varieties): Sugar Baby
  • HERBS (10 varieties): Basil, Chives, Coriander, Cumin, Dill, Marjoram, Oregano, Parsley, Summer Savory and Thyme

Victory Gardens at Heirloom Seeds

Shelf Life of Seeds

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Average number of years vegetable seeds will remain viable if properly stored.

STORE SEEDS PROPERLY
Keeping seeds dry during storage is most important. Moisture causes seeds to rot. See to it that moisture from the air or any other sources does not get into the seeds. A simple, inexpensive but efficient storage container can be made out of a canning glass jar with an airtight lid. Get a clean jar. Make sure it is dry. As a precaution against moisture, put a layer of powdered charcoal (dessicant) on the bottom of the jar. One-half inch thickness is sufficient. If silica gel or calcium chloride is available, these should be substituted for the charcoal. Place the seeds in an envelope so they do not get in contact with the charcoal; place in a jar and cover tightly. Low temperature prolongs the life of the seeds. With this method of storage, seeds can be kept without significant germination loss.

Asparagus – 3 years
Beans – 3 years
Beets – 4 years
Broccoli – 3 years
Brussels Sprouts – 4 years
Cabbage – 4 years
Carrots – 3 years
Cauliflower – 4 years
Celeriac – 3 years
Celery – 3 years
Chard,Swiss chard – 4 years
Chicory – 4 years
Chinese Cabbage – 3 years
Collards – 5 years
Corn – 2 years
Corn Salad-(mache) – 5 years
Cress – 5 years
Cucumbers – 5 years
Eggplant – 4 years
Endive – 5 years
Kale – 4 years
Kohlrabi – 3 years
Leeks – 2 years
Lettuce – 6 years
Muskmelon – 5 years
Okra – 2 years
Onions – 1 year
Parsnips – 1 year
Peas – 3 years
Peppers – 2 years
Radishes – 5 years
Rutabagas – 4 years
Salsify – 1 year
Scorzonera – 2 years
Sorrel – 4 years
Southern Peas – 3 years
Spinach – 3 years
Squash & Pumpkins – 4 years
Tomatoes – 4 years
Turnips – 4 years
Watermelon – 4 years

Source:
http://www.angelfire.com/pe/kennys/p11b.html

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