GROW A VICTORY GARDEN with HEIRLOOM SEEDS

Monday, October 6th, 2008

During WW I and WW II, Americans were encouraged to grow Victory Gardens to help support the war effort. Perhaps now is the time to renew that practice. Previously, people were asked to grow their own produce, so more of the commercially grown produce was available for the relief effort overseas. Those unable to grow their own were forced to use rationing coupons. The new war on terrorism is different from previous wars, and no one is predicting the American public will need to endure food rationing, as previously done the first two world wars. But, America still needs the support of the people, and our economy needs to keep functioning in order to lessen the effects of the war on the home front. By growing your own Victory Gardens, you can save money. That money can then be used to help support the war effort, either by donating it to charity or spending it to help our sagging economy. Why not start planting the seeds for tomorrow’s future…. plan your Victory Garden today!

To get things started, a $10.00 donation will be made to the
American Red Cross for every Victory Garden sold!

The Victory Gardens package includes:

BEANS (6 varieties): Black Turtle, Bush Blue Lake, Commodore, Fordhook Lima, Old Homestead Pole and Pencil Pod Black Wax
BEETS ( 2 varieties): Chiogga and Early Wonder
BROCCOLI (1 variety): De Cicco
BRUSSELS SPROUT (1 variety): Long Island Improved
CABBAGE (2 varieties): Early Jersey Wakefield and Red Danish
CARROTS (2 varieties): Amsterdam Minicor and Autumn King
CAULIFLOWER (1 variety): Early Snowball
CELERY (1 variety): Golden Self Blanching
COLLARD (1 variety): Georgia
CORN ( 1 variety): Golden Bantam
CUCUMBER (2 varieties): National Pickling and Tendergreen Burpless
EGGPLANT (1 variety): Black Beauty
GOURD (1 variety): Ornamental Small Mix
KALE (1 variety): Dwarf Blue Curled
KOHLRABI (1 variety): Early White Vienna
LEEK (1 variety): American Flag
LETTUCE (5 varieties): Black Seeded Simpson, Buttercrunch, Freckles Romaine, Gourmet Salad Blend, and Mesculin Mix
MELONS (2 varieties): Jenny Lind and Sweet Passion
MUSTARD GREENS (1 variety): Southern Giant Curled
OKRA (1 variety): Clemson Spineless
ONION, BUNCHING (1 variety): Evergreen White Bunching
PARSNIP (1 variety): Hollow Crown
PEPPERS (4 varieties): California Wonder, California Wonder Gold, Jalapeno and Long Red Cayenne
PEAS (3 varieties): Early Frosty, Mammoth Melting Sugar and Sugar Daddy
PUMPKINS (1 variety): New England Pie
RUTABAGA (1 variety): American Purple Top
RADISH (2 varieties): Easter Egg and Crimson Giant
SPINACH (2 varieties): Bloomsdale Long Standing and New Zealand
SQUASH, SUMMER (4 varieties): Dark Green Zucchini, Golden Zucchini, White Patty Pan and Yellow Crookneck
SQUASH, WINTER (2 varieties): Butternut and Spaghetti
SWISS CHARD (2 varieties): Lucullus and Ruby Red
SOUTHERN PEA (1 variety): California Black-Eyed
TOMATO (6 varieties): Besser, Big Red, Giant Beefsteak, Homestead 24, Pink Brandywine and Roma
TURNIPS (1 variety): Purple Top White Globe
WATERMELON (1 varieties): Sugar Baby
HERBS (10 varieties): Basil, Chives, Coriander, Cumin, Dill, Marjoram, Oregano, Parsley, Summer Savory and Thyme

Victory Gardens at Heirloom Seeds

Shelf Life of Seeds

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Average number of years vegetable seeds will remain viable if properly stored.

STORE SEEDS PROPERLY
Keeping seeds dry during storage is most important. Moisture causes seeds to rot. See to it that moisture from the air or any other sources does not get into the seeds. A simple, inexpensive but efficient storage container can be made out of a canning glass jar with an airtight lid. Get a clean jar. Make sure it is dry. As a precaution against moisture, put a layer of powdered charcoal (dessicant) on the bottom of the jar. One-half inch thickness is sufficient. If silica gel or calcium chloride is available, these should be substituted for the charcoal. Place the seeds in an envelope so they do not get in contact with the charcoal; place in a jar and cover tightly. Low temperature prolongs the life of the seeds. With this method of storage, seeds can be kept without significant germination loss.

Asparagus – 3 years
Beans – 3 years
Beets – 4 years
Broccoli – 3 years
Brussels Sprouts – 4 years
Cabbage – 4 years
Carrots – 3 years
Cauliflower – 4 years
Celeriac – 3 years
Celery – 3 years
Chard,Swiss chard – 4 years
Chicory – 4 years
Chinese Cabbage – 3 years
Collards – 5 years
Corn – 2 years
Corn Salad-(mache) – 5 years
Cress – 5 years
Cucumbers – 5 years
Eggplant – 4 years
Endive – 5 years
Kale – 4 years
Kohlrabi – 3 years
Leeks – 2 years
Lettuce – 6 years
Muskmelon – 5 years
Okra – 2 years
Onions – 1 year
Parsnips – 1 year
Peas – 3 years
Peppers – 2 years
Radishes – 5 years
Rutabagas – 4 years
Salsify – 1 year
Scorzonera – 2 years
Sorrel – 4 years
Southern Peas – 3 years
Spinach – 3 years
Squash & Pumpkins – 4 years
Tomatoes – 4 years
Turnips – 4 years
Watermelon – 4 years

Source:
http://www.angelfire.com/pe/kennys/p11b.html

Non Hybrid, Heirloom, Open Pollination, seeds for survival food growing

Monday, October 6th, 2008

Here are some the US sources for Non-Hybrid ( Heirloom ) seeds thanks to Hero4Hire4 and 411man.

Can I use seeds from my local store for long term storage?

Not recommended. The seed supplied in most garden shops and grocery stores are selected and sold for only this current year’s planting. In fact, Agricultural regulations require all seed packages to show date of season packed to protect the consumer from purchasing outdated seed. Storing outdated seed is not a wise preparedness strategy. The germination (ability to sprout and grow) decreases over time and is greatly impacted by moisture content of the seed and temperature of storage. Research shows that long term storage seeds need to be precisely dried to their scientific optimal moisture content to maintain their germination and guarantee seed viability. The two most critical factors for long term storage is temperature (heat decreases germination and cooked seed will not grow) and moisture (too wet starts the germination process or rots the seed, yet without the necessary moisture the growth process can not begin.)

What are Non-Hybrid seeds?

Non-Hybrid seeds are open-pollinating seeds that grow and reproduce true to variety. Our ancestors used these type of seeds for generations as they were very reliable and productive. Modern agricultural methods have produced hybrid or cross pollinated varieties of seeds. When these specialized seeds are collected and replanted, they do not reproduce true to variety and are sometimes sterile. 100% Non Hybrid seeds allow the self reliant gardener the opportunity to collect seed from his mature plants and save for next season. This process becomes a perpetual garden and becomes your life-time supply of garden seed. Think of the money you can save by buying seed just once.

What are Hybrid Seeds?

Hybrid seeds have been genetically altered or cross-pollinated to resist certain types of plant diseases or produce a more attractive uniform looking fruit. The major drawback to hybrid seeds is the need to purchase new fresh seed every year since the altered plants cannot reproduce seed that is true to the parent plant or the fruit of the hybrid variety may be totally sterile, not reproducing any plant whatsoever. To use an analogy, many hybrid seeds are like crossing a horse with a donkey. You get a mule which is sterile and can’t reproduce more mules.

1) Green People

http://www.greenpeople.org/seeds.htm

2) Seeds of Change

http://www.seedsofchange.com/

3) Organica Seed

http://www.organicaseed.com/

4) Heirloom Seeds

http://www.heirloomseeds.com/

5) The Ark Institute

http://www.arkinstitute.com/

6) The Natural Gardening Company

http://www.naturalgardening.com/shop/index.php3